Diving,
whale-watching, trekking, biking, great scenery, stunning mountain driving and
beautiful white-sand beaches. East
Timor is one of the world's unsung tourism destinations.
Tourist
numbers are low compared with other places in the region, with visitors perhaps
put off by the country's politically unsettled and impoverished image; which
contributes to a dearth of flights into Dili, the capital; which in turn drives
prices up and inhibits visitor numbers; which in turn keeps flight prices high;
which in turn ... you get the idea.
But
slowly, visitors are recognizing the appeal of East Timor.
So,
if you want to try something new yet still enjoy the conventional sun, sea and
sand with an adventurous twist, Asia's "newest nation" -- it gained
independence in May 2002 -- is worth a look.
Spectacular
diving
"Oh,
Timor dumps all over Thailand for diving," says Greg Duncan, dive
instructor and boat skipper at Dive
Timor Lorosae. He should know, after previously working for two years on Ko
Tao, a diving hub in southern Thailand.
"A
lot of places in the region -- off Australia, Malaysia -- are over-dived,"
he says. "Not here."
On
a sunny Sunday morning I join Greg and a group of seven divers on a boat trip
to a new site not far from Dili. "These guys are almost certainly the
first people ever to dive down there," claims Duncan.
During
a 40-minute dive the group sees small sharks, tuna, turtles, mackerel and
barracuda -- all along a submerged ridge running off the coast near Tibar.
Another
good dive spot is Atauro Island, 20 kilometers by boat from Dili harbor. En
route you might see schools of dolphins fishing in the water or racing
alongside the water-taxi, while in October and November humpbacks and sometimes
sperm whales surface off the coast.
There
are more places to dive, however, both east and west of Dili, with untouched
coral reefs to explore.
Beaches
you can call your own
The
jewel in the country's crown is Jaco Island, the easternmost point in East
Timor, a six-hour drive from Dili through green hills and winding, elevated
coastal roads overlooking steep drops to the blue water below.
There
are plenty of white-sand beaches close to the capital too, notably Areia Branca
(Portuguese for "white sands") and Dollar Beach. These beaches can
get crowded at weekends, but there are many other pristine beaches east and
west of Dili that are usually empty.
You
need to bring supplies if visiting a quieter beach, but if you are not feeling
so Alexander Selkirk, Areia Branca has plenty of bars and restaurants near the
water, so you can dine on fresh fish washed down with a beer or fresh coconut,
after a swim or a cycle.
The
south coast is risky, however, with an abundance of large saltwater crocodiles
meaning that the good surf there should be avoided.
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